Birruh, biddam, ya Saddam
COBALAH adakan pemilu di 22 negara Arab. Barangkali, Saddam Hussein akan terpilih menjadi presiden. Hampir setiap hari, fotonya diusung para demonstran anti AS, mulai dari Palestina, Lebanon, Jordania, Yaman, hingga Mesir dan Libya di Afrika Utara.
Di Amman, Jordania, ribuan pengunjukrasa setiap usai shalat Jumat meneriakkan yel-yel anti Amerika (ada, misalnya yang berteriak, Bush, mampuslah kau!). Nyanyian mereka seragam: birruh, biddam, li ajlik ya Saddam (darah kami, jiwa kami, untukmu ya Saddam).
Nyanyian ini dipopulerkan melalui stasiun televisi Irak. Orang Irak, seperti bangsa India, gemar menyanyi. Bersedih menyanyi. Tertawa menyanyi. Tapi di Irak, setiap nyanyian beraroma perang. Birruh biddam dinyanyikan sambil mengacung-acungkan senjata M-16 atau AK 47. Laki dan perempuan.
Popularitas Saddam yang meroket merepotkan pemimpin Arab lainnya. Sambil berbisik (takut di borgol polisi, tentu saja), warga Jordania mengunjingkan Raja Abdullah II. Pemimpin muda ini diejek sebagai “boy”, anak kecil. Sebabnya, ia jauh dari kharisma almarhum ayahnya, Raja Hussein. Lagi pula, di tangannya, pertumbuhan ekonomi menurun, rakyat sulit mencari kerja.
Presiden Suriah Basrah Asad sebenarnya juga masih muda. Seperti Abdullah, Bashar yang memimpin sejak Juli 2000 belum genap 50 tahun. Bashar seorang dokter, jauh dari pengalaman memimpin negara ketika menggantikan almarhum ayahnya, Hafez Asad. Prestasinya pun tidak seberapa. Tapi, ia mulai mendapatkan simpati dari kalangan rakyat Arab karena ia secara konsisten menentang serangan AS ke Irak.
Kesalahan Raja Abdullah sebenarnya bukan karena ia gagal membangun ekonomi negeri mungil ini. Kesalahannya adalah ia terlanjur dianggap pro AS.
Memang, Raja Abdullah telah mengeluarkan statemen “keras”, setelah lebih dari 200 demonstrasi digelar di seantero Jordania, setelah seorang ulama di Ma’an, sebuah kota kecil, menyerukan jihad melawan “kafir” AS.
Setelah perang berkecamuk lebih dari 10 hari, Raja Abdullah mengutuk perang. Mengenai masa depan Irak, Raja Abdullah menyatakan rakyat Irak seharusnya yang berhak menentukan siapa yang akan memimpin mereka, bukan Amerika. Pernyataan pemimpin muda yang kawin dengan wanita Palestina itu terbilang keras untuk seorang pemimpin negara penerima bantuan AS terbesar kedua di kawasan Timur Tengah. Tapi rakyat terlanjur tidak percaya.
“Dia anak kecil,” tegas seorang pria berusia 50 tahun, dengan rambut ikal yang mulai dihiasi uban, di sebuah warung kopi di Balad City. “He is a boy,” ia menambahkan, sambil berbisik, di tengah keramaian warung yang dipenuhi pria penggila arjila, rokok khas Arab. Sambil meminum teh atau gahfa halua (kopi manis), pengunjung café di bangunan tua itu menyaksikan siaran Al Jazeera. Mereka tidak percaya media Barat.
***
SEBAGIAN ebagian besar rakyat Arab membenci AS. Namun mereka tak bisa berbuat banyak. Hampir seluruh negara Arab dipimpin secara otoriter dan turun temurun. Kerajaan seperti Arab Saudi, Kuwait, dan Jordania tidak mengenal pemilihan umum. Sementara negara non kerajaan seperti Irak atau Mesir mengenal pemilu, namun lebih tepatnya pemilu-pemiluan ala Indonesia di zaman Soeharto.
Sebagian besar negara Arab menjadi sekutu AS. Mesir dan Jordania, yang membuka hubungan diplomatik dengan Israel, dihadiahi bantuan luar negeri yang besar. Sementara negara-negara kecil yang kaya minyak di Teluk diperas duitnya sebagai bayaran atas proteksi militer yang diberikan AS.
Wajar kalau rakyat Arab putus asa. Mereka tidak menemukan pemimpin yang menjadi penyalur perasaan dan mimpi mereka yang telah terpendam puluhan tahun. Kini, mereka menemukan figur itu pada diri Saddam Hussein.
“Saya percaya, Saddam orang baik. Kalau dia tidak baik, pasti dia sudah melarikan diri dari Irak. Mengapa dia harus mempertaruhkan nyawanya melawan Amerika?” tutur Abdul Salam, pria 32 tahun yang menjual syai (teh) di kawasan Roman Theater, Amman.
Salam, ayah satu anak asal Basra, kota di Irak selatan, mengatakan, kekuatan militer Amerika sulit dicari tandingannya di kolong langit ini. Hanya orang gila atau orang berani seperti Saddam yang mau mempertaruhkan keluarga, nyawa, harta, dan kekuasaannya melawan negara raksasa seperti Amerika.
“Saya akan kembali ke Basra. Dua saudara saya di sana bertempur melawan Amerika,” kata pria yang sudah tujuh tahun mencari sesuap nasi di Amman dengan menjajakan teh kepada wisatawan.
Basra adalah salah satu basisnya shiah. Di luar perkiraan Amerika, kaum shiah di kota terbesar kedua di Irak tersebut menyambut tentara sekutu dengan perlawanan yang sengit. Sampai perang memasuki hari ke-19, kota shiah tersebut belum juga berhasil ditaklukan.
“Saya ingin bangsa Arab bersatu. Amerika punya senjata yang canggih. Bangsa Arab harus bersatu melawan Amerika,” tuturnya dalam bahasa Arab.
***
SERANGAN AS ke Irak memang terasa ironis setelah korban sipil berjatuhan. Amerika berkampanye, invasi itu dimaksudkan untuk membebaskan rakyat Irak dari cengkeraman rejim brutal ala Saddam. Namun, rakyat Irak dan bangsa Arab sudah terlanjur terluka. Walhasil, pemimpin yang kejam seperti Saddam justru berubah citranya menjadi seorang pahlawan, idola bangsa Arab.
Sana Ali, ibu tiga anak yang terpaksa mengungsi dari Irak, menuturkan, Saddam memperlakukan warga Palestina seperti dirinya dengan sangat baik. Tanah, perumahan, pekerjaan, semuanya diberikan pemerintah Saddam. Bahkan Sana merasa terkadang warga Palestina diperlakukan jauh lebih baik dari rakyat Irak sendiri.
Pemegang identitas Palestina tak dipersulit masuk Irak. “Tidak perlu mengurus visa di kedutaan. Cukup ke border (perbatasan) saja,” tuturnya saat ditemui di tendanya yang sempit di gurun pasir Kamp Pengungsi Ruweished, 60 km dari perbatasan Jordania-Irak. Sana memperkirakan, sekitar 80.000 keturunan Palestina bermukim di Irak.
Bagi orang dari negara miskin seperti Amadu Quatara, Saddam amat peduli pada orang kecil. Sebagian besar mahasiswa yang belajar di Saddam University di Baghdad mendapatkan beasiswa pemerintah. Asrama, makanan, dan uang saku setiap bulan lancar mengalir dari kas rejim Partai Baath yang sosialis.
“Tanpa beasiswa, sulit saya melanjutkan kuliah,” kata Quatara, mahasiswa jurusan ilmu Islam asal Mali, negara kecil di Afrika Barat yang hanya berpenduduk sekitar 2 juta orang, mayoritas Muslim. Di Baghdad, ada 10 orang mahasiswa asal Mali. Hanya Quatara yang mengungsi ke Ruweished.
Saddam juga memberikan beasiswa kepada mahasiswa Somalia, negeri Muslim di Afrika. Bantuan biaya pendidikan tinggi itu sangat menolong generasi muda Somalia. Bukan hanya soal ringannya biaya, tapi di Somalia tidak ada perguruan tinggi.
Sebagian besar mahasiswa Indonesia juga mendapatkan beasiswa dari pemerintahan Saddam. Mereka kuliah di Saddam University. Hanya sedikit saja mahasiswa Baghdad University, tempat Gus Dur dulu pernah menimba ilmu.
Sumber daya manusia Irak termasuk salah satu yang terbaik di Timur Tengah. Negeri bekas pusat peradaban Islam itu bukan cuma mampu mengekspor minyak, tapi juga tenaga terdidik ke manca negara, termasuk ke Amerika Serikat.
Irak memang bukan Indonesia, yang sejak masuk TK orang tua siswa sudah diperas biaya pendidikan. Di Irak, sejak pendidikan dasar sampai program doktoral semuanya gratis. Biaya rumah sakit terjangkau. Rakyat kecil mendapatkan bantuan perumahan. Sebanyak 60 persen rakyatnya hidup dari ramsum pemerintah.
Kekurangan Saddam, dia seorang diktator. “A brutal dictator,” kata Bush. Cuma, semua kelemahan itu seperti sirna karena sikap heroiknya menantang Amerika. Bukan Rusia, bukan Jerman, bukan Perancis, dan juga bukan China yang berani melawan arogansi Amerika. Tapi Irak, negeri yang sebenarnya sakit-sakitan sejak PBB menjatuhkan sanksi ekonomi tahun 1991.
Saddam bukanlah pemimpin Islam. Dia memimpin Baath, partai sekuler. Sebelum Perang Teluk tahun 1991, wanita-wanita Irak bebas tidak memakai jilbab. Bar-bar diinjinkan.
Toh, ia kini mendapatkan simpati luas dari rakyat Arab. Ribuan relawan jihad mengalir dari berbagai negara untuk membantunya mengusir tentara musuh. Hampir setiap hari, ribuan demonstran di tanah Arab mengusung foto dirinya. Sekiranya ada pemilihan presiden, tidak salah lagi, ia akan terpilih.
Birruh, biddam ya Saddam. Anda telah menjelma menjadi pemimpin Arab yang terbaik diantara yang terburuk. (Dahlan, dari Amman, Jordania)
* Laporan ini dimuat di harian Surya, Surabaya, dan sejumlah koran daerah Kompas Gramedia yang dikelola Persda. Saya berangkat ke Timur Tengah menjelang Perang Irak atas biaya Persda
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